Shannon invited me to go to Nevada to climb trad multipitch over Spring Break! ...I said yes!
Monday:
We wake up early to get into the park before 8am but don’t make it and pay for annual parks pass and then park at the second pullout to go to the Great Red Book Area. I lead the Great Red Book ! My 2nd and 3rd lead trad climbs!!!
Parking pullout 2—Great Red Book Area—
The Great Red Book— p1 5.8 & p2 5.8 PG —honestly super chill and super fun!!!!!! The main sketchy parts were a small traverse with no hands in p1 and coming out of a little chimney cubby feature in p2 ( but I was able to get a high cam before coming out that made it feel safer. Lie backing was super fun and chill. You just keep going hand over hand😍 topping out was a little runout on p2 but you just keep going up and it’s cruiser climbing😍
Tomato Amnesia 2 pitches 5.9—first pitch was chill and mostly just moving on good holds and had a lot of bolts. Shannon got a little crack action on p2. We weren’t sure what p3 had as an anchor so we didn’t do it, but it had at least 4 or 5 bolts. It’s probably a walk off though. May have to come back and do the last pitch. My 2nd multipitch ever where I led! That’s 4 trad climbs down!
Black Corridor—The Heavy Hitter 5.10d sport. Really fun pumpy climb with a bit of a brutal top out on small holds that I mostly tried to skip😂 the beginning also has dicey move up to a nice left hand pull so you can clip. There’s a cool feature where you can stick your arms in two huecos and touch your hands together. Super fun!
Tuesday:
We head out bouldering at Kraft Boulders with Albert and Julian and meet up with some climbers from Oregon university
Monkey Bar Boulder in Kraft Boulders—
Warmed up on the back side and then got on some sick climbs.
Monkey Bar Boulder V2- really fun roof traverse problem with some committing long moves
Hyper glide (aka Monkey Pinch) V5- come up off a really good rail to a left side pull and a pretty good right pinch. Then a high foot and throw a left hand to a small incut piece. Then standup and get a really shitty right hand. Then I just jumped for the top😂 My first V5!!!!! It was super fun with all the climbers there from Oregon!!!!
Plumbers Crack–Plumbers Crack V0-this was so freaking sketchy. But it was so fun! Shannon made an attempt before and everyone else there who tried it got super sketched out. You either flash or ☠️
Wednesday:
My finger was hurting so we mostly rested and got on a fun hike. We went up to Turtlehead Peak 4.6 miles ~2k vert and very beautiful😍 (also in the scenic drive loop). Charlie happened to be at the top too and then we made it to the red rock campground 😍
Thursday:
My finger is still hurting so we take a chill day.
10-pine creek Canyon— Flight Path Area—
Shannon started by leading Stanley 5.7 and then we top roped up and down the adjacent climbs: Coeur d’Alene 5.7, Boise 5.7, Idaho Falls 5.8. Then: Shannon leads Simple Expediency 5.8+and I follow.
Last is Doin’ the Good Drive 5.9—Shannon leads a bit harrowingly but sends!
Friday:
Olive Oil 5.7 600ft 5 pitches
Shannon leads 1p and cruises to a alcove with a sandy floor. Doesn’t really require you to tie in. I tried to link the 2/3rd pitch but ran out of cams and made a belay about 30 feet below the actual belay spot. Shannon had a tough time with nuts and had to leave my large nut behind and then had a tough time with another nut and then got a quick draw stuck and then got the nut out and then the QuickDraw but then dropped the QuickDraw while clipping😅😂😂. She was on the wall like a full hour before getting to my belay spot and was very frustrated and I was very hot. Then Shannon did a short pitch stopping accidentally 30ft below the really large belay spot. I thought it was short but didn’t speak up. I tried to push to the top from there but there was massive rope drag and I was concerned about communication and I ran out of gear. So I set a gear anchor in an awkward place 2/3 up the dihedral. This caused us to split the 5th pitch into two. Shannon went too high at the end onto a false summit. I just picked up the gear and exited to the right of where Shannon was. There was rap gear someone left that Shannon used to rap off. Try to circle around to the right once you get to the top instead of continuing up.
Saturday:
We went out to do the fox, but had to bail because Ramy broke his ankle. Shannon got him in a makshift slit using cams and nut tools and Ramy butt scooted his way down the mountain. Whitman and I carried him out the last 200m or so.
Sunday:
Did a little cragging at Cannibal Crag and I did lead laps on Mac & Ronnie & Cheese 5.9+ sport (3 to be exact). Super fun climb and then belayed Whitman on Have a Beer with Beer 5.11b sport. I would have hopped on, but my finger was not feeling it.
Then we went over to Yin and Yang Cliff and I tried Atman 5.10a finger/hand crack on lead and finished it after 3 or so falls and then tried Yin and Yang 5.11a on top with two falls. I’ll definitely have to go back for these two.
Monday Last Day!
We got on Birdland 5 pitches 5.7+ 500ft but we just went up to the 5th pitch (the 6th pitch is apprently chossy and sketch). A little busy, but a really fun climb. I led pitches 2 and 4 that go at 5.7 and 5.6. Just amazing fun :))))) and I felt a lot better than when I was on