Shawangunks, NY

1st & 2nd 5.9 Trad Leads!

Multipitch Baby! And some sick crack stuff

Gear: BD C4 Cams: 3, 2, 1, .75, .5
BD Z4 Cams: .2, .1
BD Stopper Nuts: 4-7, 9-11
Metolius Curve Nut: ~9 BD size
DMM Wall Nut: 11 (bigger than BD 12)
Who?: Shannon, Whitman, Anne, Sarah, Tommy
Date: April 23-24 2022
Photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/jcByhREtvoDjVGpe6
Native Land: Munsee Lenape people—unfortunate history from the nearby town Shawangunk


Beautiful weekend out! I learned how to climb on double ropes and led 5.9 trad and got a super pretty DMM 11 nut from the annex consignment store to replace the one I lost in Red Rocks :)))

Saturday we started off at the Mac Wall–Birdie Party 5.8 but then Anne got off course & we ended up in Higher Stannard 5.9- and Tommy and I followed on top.

Then I led Birdie Party 5.8 p1 from the bottom with a bit of a sketchy start.

Then I went with Anne and Whitman and I followed on Low Exposure 5.11- on Uber fall right. Crazy line that felt more like a Boulder that was just overhanging crack 👀 👀 👀. I wasn’t able to get over the lip, but I got tons of experience. Definitely felt the strain full body

Sunday we went to High Exposure 5.6 3p and got on Directissima 5.9 to do the harder start variation. I did p1 5.9 with a semi powerful rock around a corner and then walked up a ramp. Whitman took over p2/3 including the traverse section 5.9 and I topped out the climb on High E 5.6 with a really fun little roof section that was super exposed!

Next was Bonnie’s Roof 5.9 2p and I led the first pitch 5.9 and some of it was wet and I ran it out a little on the first roof section with a committing dead point. Then Whitman took over and did a different finish up a hand crack roof section 5.9++ and I followed him up. Beautiful day and we finished up by going into town to eat!